Stock up on the extra strong hairspray and build up those backcombing muscles because if New York Fashion Week SS20 is anything to go by, full-on 80s hair is having a comeback.
The retro revival started at Jeremy Scott’s high-octane show, where models including Stella Maxwell and Lily Aldridge formed Scott’s ‘imaginary intergalactic rock band’ in multicoloured, punk-esque wigs.
Ranging from an acid mint to blinding highlighter yellow to neon lavender, the styles were the brainchild of backstage hair maestro, Eugene Souleiman, and were inspired by Jem And The Holograms, an 80s cartoon about a music producer with a badass, punk-singing alter ego. But of course.
Souleiman relied on hand-cut neon wigs to create the outlandish looks, which mirrored the space-age costumes designed by Scott. Possibly not a look you’d replicate for your 9-5, but get your hands on some straighteners, an XXL can of strong hold hairspray, temporary hair dye, and a shed load of sass, and you’ve got your new going-out-out look.
At the other end of the 80s spectrum, things took a ladylike turn at Tory Burch, where femininity was out in full force. Burch’s collection featured polka dots, bias cuts and sweetheart necklines, ‘a nostalgia for all that fashion was in the early Eighties’ according to the designer’s Instagram. The hair, styled by Redken’s Global Creative Director Guido Palau, was no different.
‘There’s a nod to Princess Diana,’ said Palau, of the hyper-feminine and Sloaney styles, ‘it reminds me of a well-heeled English woman who would groom her hair every morning’. The comb-clips used to pin back the hair of models including Natalia Vodianova were made especially for the show. ‘I couldn’t find coloured clips anywhere, so we had to buy them and I sprayed them different colours’.
DIY Palau’s ‘boyish spin on being feminine and proper’ by blow-drying the front smooth but letting the rest maintain some natural texture, creating a side-parting with a fine-toothed comb, and pulling the non-dominant part back directly over the ear, securing with a clip or barrette. To finish? Hairspray, of course.
Things went full circle at Tom Ford, where the hairstyles were unmistakably punk-inspired. Ford’s collection paid tribute in part to Luc Besson’s 1985 film Subway, with the designer saying he ‘remembered so clearly when the film came out thinking how cool they (actors Isabelle Adjani and Christophe Lambert) looked, especially the hair.’
For the models with afro hair, the focus was on the shape rather than punky-texture, with hairstylist Duffy picking it out and slightly rounding it, ‘going back to that ‘80s new wave. Not too square’. Kaia Gerber and Gigi Hadid were amongst the models topped with faux-hawk styles that paid homage to the new wave movement, teased into shape by Duffy, who told press backstage that the ‘home-done, electrified kind of hair’ was created ‘with mousse, blasting it out, and shaping it with our hands’.
This article first appeared on ELLE UK.