LOEWE’s Creative Director Jonathan Anderson has always been vocal about his admiration of all things classic and historic. The Fall Winter 2019 Womenswear collection is no exception. The Spanish house debuted the collection earlier this year at Paris Fashion Week. Held at the Maison de l’UNESCO, there could not be a more fitting place to celebrate history, art and fashion under one roof.
The walls of the UNESCO Headquarters hung miniature oval-shaped portraits featuring 16th and 17th century paintings of famous and forgotten figures, from Mary Queen of Scots to King Charles I. These portraits serve as a hint to the inspiration behind the collection, throwing the spotlight on historical influence on the fashion industry today. Anderson’s designs reflect the House’s commitment to celebrating historic feats of craftsmanship in a modern context. While Anderson never meant to conform to the masses, the elevation of vintage designs inadvertently resulted in populism and appealed to many modern women.
At its core, LOEWE is known for their Spanish passion, exquisite leather marquetry and precise craftsmanship. Anderson takes advantage of this and combines it with his artistic vision and flair, resulting in tasteful odes to classic designs made wearable in contemporary times.
LOEWE’s Fall Winter 2019 bags are a true testament of this collaboration. Inspired by iconic bags of the past, each one was carefully designed and re-envisioned to retain its original charm while assimilating LOEWE’s quintessential style. We take a closer look at these bags below.
The Mini Lazo capitalises on the rise of the mini bag trend. LOEWE has already seen success with their mini bag series, especially with the Gate Mini Bag. This new addition to the Lazo family features the front belt knot and cinching straps from the Lazo Shopper bag.
Little, but luxurious. Made from high-end Boxcalf, the bag’s functionality is taken to a whole new level which maximises its small size fully. The interior of the Mini Lazo is lined with bonded soft Nappa in black, with the exception of the Black Colourway, which adopts red bonding for a chic twist.
An ode to the bags that shook the fashion scene in the ’50s, the Postal bag incites nostalgia with its four-cornered shape that is reminiscent of postcards. The special limited edition series featuring playful illustrations of major world cities in vintage-looking urban vignettes further evokes the postcard motif. The signature Anagram is engraved on the upper right corner, mimicking a stamp.
A breath of fresh air amidst LOEWE’s existing collection, this marks the first time the House has put out a more structured bag shape. Known for their penchant for bags with malleable designs (i.e. Puzzle Bag, Elephant Bag), the rigid shape of the Postal bag stands out in all the right ways.
Such structural integrity could only be achieved by employing advanced craft techniques such as leather marquetry (laser cutting leather into precise pieces) and manipulating the supple leather around the rigid bag frame.
Ten years ago, Anderson was browsing an antique store in London where he stumbled upon the “Straeter Lite-On” bag by Dutch designer L.F.W. Straeter. Despite its austere appearance,its interior boasted practical functionality. Equipped with a flashlight and mirror, the light was meant to help illuminate the lady’s door keyhole when she returns home at night.
This bag left such an impression on Anderson that he decided to revive the forgotten item into a new edition. The mirror and light has been modernised for the 21st century context. The bag comes in different finishes such as black leather for a more classic look and matte crocodile for those who fancy a little edge.
Taking inspiration from their archives, these geometrical bags have been redesigned for the FW19 collection under the name of Architect bags. Their unique, rigid and architectural shapes are modelled after the shape of letters ‘A’ and ‘D’.
Similar to the Postal Bag, these bags are constructed by hang-bonding Soft Nappa Calfskin onto a light-weight plastic mould. This process requires the highest quality of leather, extreme precision and patience, epitomising the mastery of LOEWE’s experienced craftsmen.