Coinciding with the fashion world’s revived interest in maximalist style, the beauty world has quickly turned from boasting the no-make-up make-up look to sporting glitter eyes and strategically placed rhinestones. At the onset of fashion month, this took the form of Euphoria-like beauty looks during New York Fashion Week, with designers seemingly referencing the make-up from the hit HBO show.
The return of over-the-top beauty has translated to the runway, transcending the boundaries and toeing the line between the realm of accessorising and make-up. Throughout the Spring/Summer 2020 season, designers incorporated facial jewels and accessories into their collections as a way of glamming up each ensemble without overshadowing the pieces themselves.
Jewels are no stranger to fashion, especially at fashion houses such as Schiaparelli. Models for the brand’s newest collection donned rainbow rhinestones as a makeshift mask. The look evokes a playfulness radiating from their vibrant hues. At Pyer Moss, red jewels heightened the sophistication of an already crystal-encrusted outfit. The addition of rhinestones dotted around the model’s eyes completed the aesthetic of unabashed luxury felt throughout the collection.
Valentino also experimented with face jewels, incorporating them into the makeup looks. Gold glitter was applied in an angular fashion around the eyes and brows, topped with gold jewels for a bold effect. Several models sported gilded lashes with an otherwise bare face, creating a simple yet extravagant look.
In Area’s Spring/Summer 2020 collection, facial accoutrements were an extension of the ensembles themselves, rather than well-thought add-ons. Not only did they match each outfit they were paired with, but the hanging jewels incorporated a desirably avant-garde element to a series of equally outlandish, yet oddly wearable looks.
To celebrate the motifs of spring, Giambattista Valli designed flower crowns for the face. These new bouquets, featuring a number of white orchids or a series of red rose petals, adorned the visage with natural imagery. The delicate vibe of this accessory reinforces the overall themes of femininity and frivolity in the collection. By adding demi-wreaths to the series, Valli conveyed the symbolism of girls blossoming into young women.
In a collection that celebrates the recent strides in rights for the global LGBTQ+ community, Manish Arora presented audiences with an explosion of colour and design. A white piece served as an off-kilter mask, reminiscent of something in Philip Treacy’s wheelhouse. However, other elements in the collection were derived from Arora’s Indian culture. The runway show, which debuted just after the one year anniversary of India’s decision to decriminalise same-sex relationships, incorporated these two newly allied aspects of the designer’s life. In context, the facial accessories bridge the gap between Indian and gay culture, wrapped up in Arora’s signature over-the-top style.
Another innovative mask design, a golden piece from Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood looked as though it was dug up from the ruins of Ancient Greece. Juxtaposed with the pink dress, the mask adds a tough element to the feminine ensemble, showing how the collection amalgamated several time periods from the medieval to the primordial. Each aspect of this look, out of place on its own, blends together to create a discordantly beautiful effect.
From: CR Fashion Book
This article first appeared on ELLE UK.